Ang byggande av Kubbhus???

[yellowcity]

Hej har några frågor gällande byggande av sk kubbhus, i mitt fall byggnad. Då jag är fn endast är intr av att mura upp en kombination av vedförråd garage för 1 bil och traktor i kombination istället för hus. Bryr jag mig ej om att fråga om olika tillstånd hit och dit.  Har redan hus men behöver nytt garage och vedbod med förråd.
Har fastna för ett par bilder jag hittat på cordwood   daycreek,com eller om det var annan site låter jag vara osagt.
Men tänkte mig ngt så här i alla fall något åt det hållet.
Men min lösning kanske inte så som de har gjort men som inspiration är de helt ok.




 Kommer ju några frågor fram.

1.   träslag, vilka är mest lämpliga? Ek, svartnar för mycket och blir fult med tiden är min åsikt. Annars verkar det vara lämpligt med kärnfuru för att minimera skadedjursangrepp och röta. Men nog måste andra trädslag funka?
2.   Sen måste man ju barka träden före kapning och förvaring så angrepp undviks. Vilka maskiner anses vara lämpliga för dessa ändamål?
3.   Jag tänker mig i första hand anv. runda bitar istället för kluvna. Mest för att slippa bli frestad att stoppa in kubbarna i pannan när kylan tränger på.
4.   sen så är ju nästa fråga vilken blandning av bruk man bör hålla sig till? Dvs 1 del hit 2 delar dit osv. en
tja man kan väl börja med dessa spörsmål först och sen fortsätta med matnyttiga kommentarer och ideer.

[yellowcity]

1 bild till

[yellowcity]

dessa 2 bilder är ganska häftiga men nog blir det svårt att skaffa så grovt överdimensionerat kubbar

http://www.cordwoodmasonry.com/Cordwoodphotos7a.html

http://www.cordwoodmasonry.com/Cordwoodphotos8a.html

[yellowcity]

hittat en photo section på yahoo, med en del trevliga bilder.


http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sandange2000/my_photos

[astrahl]

Hey there--here's some stuff I found on what kind of wood to use in such a house:
(from http://www.motherearthnews.com/top_articles/1977_September_October/The_Return_of_the_Cordwood_House)

 TYPE OF WOOD. While it is true that "any kind of wood can be used to build a stackwood wall, as long as the wood is dry", I believe that cedar is by tar the best for any form of stovewood masonry construction. Remember that the end grain is left exposed to the weather in a cordwood wall and that water does not shed easily from such a rough surface. This means that you should take every possible precaution to protect stackwood construction from rot.


Cedar, as I've already pointed out, is far more resistant to rot than any other kind of wood. If you can't get cedar, try for Douglas fir, western larch, or old utility poles discarded by the telephone and power companies. Hardwoods and soft pine have the least resistance to rot of all and should be avoided whenever possible. It's also a very good idea to build a minimum twofoot overhang onto the roof over any stovewood masonry wall.

AS for your question about a tool for stripping bark from the wood and lera or betong mixes:  ORDER this book:  it's by the the guy who is the king of kubb in the USA: NEW!...Cordwood Masonry State of the Art by Rob Roy The simple and environmentally friendly cordwood method offer great insulation and weather protection value, and can be owner built. Roy and his family live in their beautifully constructed and efficient off-the-grid cordwood home in New York. This book offers complete information of how to plan and build, and shows how small trees- the cord wood– can be effectively used avoiding sawmill processing and costs. Explains the sawdust/lime mortar, how to debark and season wood and even 8 x10 , color photos, paperback , #4002...$28.00 (Order on Amazon.com or wherever...it's worth the money for sure)

[wikhall]

dessa 2 bilder är ganska häftiga men nog blir det svårt att skaffa så grovt överdimensionerat kubbar

http://www.cordwoodmasonry.com/Cordwoodphotos7a.html

http://www.cordwoodmasonry.com/Cordwoodphotos8a.html

Vad är det för ett tak du har på denna byggnad?

[astrahl]

Hey,  I don't have a building yet.  We are about tostart a small project in the forest just to learn the techniques.  From my research, the roof could be just about anything...

Personally, for a small koya in the forest, we'll probably do a living roof (like an old finnish house or a norwegian grass roof), but if I were to build a bigger structure, I'd probably just go with something simple, like tar paper shingles (I forget what they are called...)

How's your project going, anyway?  Have you started yet?

[Filip Skräplund]

Sågar man upp vedkubbar brukar de flesta spricka ända in till märgen när dom torkar.
Det måste väl ske även i kubbhus.
Då får man en spricka i (nästan) varje kubb.
De jättestora bitarna på bilderna i tidigare inlägg skulle ge ordentligt korsdrag.
Frågan är: vad tätar man sprickorna med?

[astrahl]

hej...

det finns många bra greyer i USA for filling the "sprick"'s.  This problem of logs spricking is a normal thing in cordwood, to be simply fixed after the first or second year by´putting a kind of wood-putty around the log ends...it is only done one time, and then the house should have no problems with air/water/bugs coming in.  

Here is an answer from the biggest "expert" out there, Rob Roy, from this page:
http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/cordwoodQandA.htm

"A: No building system, "natural" or otherwise, is completely without its problems. As a former polar bear, you can appreciate that an igloo eventually melts. Cordwood masonry will not melt in the hot Mexican climate, but you can expect that the logs will get very dry, and check and crack quite a bit. However, this would not deter me from building with cordwood masonry in Mexico. I would be inclined to stick with mortar (as opposed to cob), so that I could easily apply a flexible log chinking product (such as Log Jam by Sashco Industries or Perma Chink) to the mortar joints after the logs have done their shrinking. This should eliminate the "never-ending job" which you spoke of. Complete log-end shrinkage might not occur until a year or two after the home is built, though, so don't be in a big rush to apply the chinking. It is a time-consuming and expensive job that you will only want to do once. Do a Google search to get info on various log chinking products. Be sure to apply a thin coat to the entire mortar joint, not just the spaces around log-ends. Your wall will look great. Finally, during the masonry process, leave your log-ends sticking out a good quarter inch proud of the mortar matrix, so that there is room to apply the chinking. This also makes it easier to apply the material, as the log-ends will guide your brush. "